The warmth in the cold Nepali village

Beautiful Sidin

Martial arts for kids in local school

After a long drive in the uncomfortable minivan on actually very good road (for Nepali life-threatening standards, of course) my body popped out in front of Sidin (the village in Panchthar). I received my already very dirty bag (throughout the whole journey I felt that the smartest decision was to put my backpack in extra cover against dirt) and made a deep deep breath. In this unbelievably silent silence was only one disturbance-screams from martial trainings. Such a surprise!

The first place we went became our host-house for next few nights. In general, rural Nepali families are very hospitable, generous and welcoming. It would never be a problem to find an overnight stay or lunch in any of the houses we would pass. It always seemed crazy, that you could just go to the house on your way and ask for food. It is so sad, that nowadays in our society it is hard to come closer even to the house, big fences and aggressive dogs would not even let you inside the garden…

Making tea in the morning. Kitchen is the heart of the house,
and the source to survive in cold

We were immediately “taken” by local teachers, so willing to share all their knowledge, to help and to introduce with all their networks. We put hats, gloves, jackets and sit comfortably close to the fire in the kitchen. Warm, nice food and the proper sleep even in so cold conditions was what we needed.

The old proud man

Next day we were walking around and became honour guests in two events. Firstly I was invited to the marriage party. Actually it was not a wedding, but the party organized by the bride’s parents for her to be able to “enter” her in-law parents’ house. Since the couple have had love-marriage and not arranged marriage, that was a necessary procedure I was observer of. On that party many people would like to come to talk to me. Some of them would tell their sad stories, some would promise to arrange marriage for me, some would just come and would be proud to be 86 years old. As I mentioned before, I had a status of a married woman in the village, but many people would not believe me. That young look of mine!

Marriage party

Look at that special guest!

Another honoured position was in the games, which gathered several villages in neighbourhood. Events like that happen once a year and special guests would be invited to sit on the stage before the opening. And so was I. Without knowing and understanding what is going I was just sitting and letting people staring at me. Well, I starred at them too. Funny enough, one old lady couldn’t hold her curiosity and went down to my place to look at me closer.

What I’ve noticed is that children would be a combination of curiosity and shyness, which would never let them come closer. Although once my assistant left me shortly, the circle around me of young teenagers would become tighter and tighter and finally I would have no escape from almost physical contact with them and being forced to pose for many pictures for their phones. You might be surprised about their phones and so was I-but here having a phone is both a necessity and the fashion thing, so many would prefer having a better phone than better food.

Actually I was in more favourable position, because my assistant (who is Nepali, but still looks exotic enough for them, because he represents another ethnicity) was surrounded by local opinion leaders. I would call them usually “the smart men”. Wearing suits and sunglasses in the evening only with their whole look they would already say that they are smart and know everything better.

In these cases I would open my box of patience and would listen to their smart speeches waiting for the next day, which I would devote for talks with casual people.

Oh and the people were so nice. Many of them would ask me casual for researchers questions-why do I need that and why do they need to tell me their problems. But quite soon the first barrier would be gone and they would call me “naani” (a sweet word for cute daughter), would give me smiles, warm water and tea. I wish I could understand what they tell me! Even though I’ve learned some Nepali, Nepali here would be totally different and I was solely dependent on the translation of my assistant.

Pretty, lovely, warm, caring faces of rural Nepal

Nevertheless I was crying and laughing with them, admiring over and over again the inner and outer beauty of those people.

 

And so with the book of notes I needed to say good bye to this wonderful place and to move next morning to the north. “Come again, come again”, people would tell me. I hope I will.