Monday, March 25, 2013

23_Into naked remoteness I


The peace slowly and softly covered the earth, gently entering every house and every heart. This peace has been here for a while, waking up just few moments after the sun, after the first rays enlighten the area. The earth is slowly becoming fresh and new just like a newborn baby, and old just like your childhood friend.
How could I explain that scientifically? How and why should I look for reasons of remoteness, castes, settlements, history, etc. etc. if the actual reason is not scientific at all?
For 11 days we were staying in two different settlements of a so-called remote ward of the village. Honestly, I was waiting for that moment for a long time, mostly because of what people were telling me about this place. They said it is very remote, very hardly accessible and very cold and children would hide their face in the sand once we approach them. Everything was “very”, becoming therefore very interesting.
I must say the talks were quite of exaggeration-we reached the first settlement in 4 hours of walk and we were surprised of high development of the place. Here I started understanding development from a different perspective than before-at one hand there are traditional signs of development which are road, health post and education. But from another hand there is people empowerment, feelings of community and informal education; and this is what we experienced here.
This place was inhabited by only few Brahmins and Chhetri, others being indigenous tribes (Limbu and Rai). Indigenous people are usually those who need time before they “open” but once you get their sympathy they become your sincere and trustful friends. Every day they make better and better food and at the end they even don’t want to charge you. Indigenous people can never become rich!-I usually say. The richness of their soul is simply much bigger than their craves for financial richness.
There was not even common Nepali shyness or suspicion in this area, not even of children.
Look at this picture – this is the man we encountered just few seconds ago, but his face already has a big kind smile.
Some people here told me that they have never talked to a foreigner like that before. In this village most of the men have been for employment in Gulf countries/Malaysia for many years and obviously they saw different people before. But sitting close next to the fire and talking with eyes, smiles and words-that was the first time.
That moment of intimacy when no borders exist and we are humans of naked souls. Just humans. The difference of pasts and presents is so huge that it hurts. Suddenly I want to bring them to my home, to give them my food and to sit on my house floor, having the same eye level. Sofas and chairs make people so distant.
I thought that sometimes the heart tends to expand and when it becomes larger than myself, I want to cry and hug and love and even to laugh quietly. But instead only a slight smile comes to the face and we just touch each other with our eyes.
A young man came through the heavy rain and slippery paths at night just to be able to talk to me again. He told me he was so happy to meet me and I thought that I wish I could keep this sincerity and truthfulness. When a person comes at night to your house just to see you.
At some points I told him I will visit them again at Dasai and Tihar (the most important religious festivals in Nepal), which made him even more excited.
“I don’t have a sister… I will give you tika during that day…Ok?”
“I would be happy for that.”
Childish happiness appeared on his face which has made me even more sentimental.
Tika given during Dasai is something very special and sacred, expressing intimacy and close relations between a group participating in this ceremony. Normally during these festivals Kathmandu is empty as all the people go to their natal homes to receive this blessing.


I entered this world so carelessly without realizing what to do with my feelings, with their feelings, with my world and their world. Now it’s too late, the damage is done-I already miss them. 

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